I must be off my rocker….
So to speak
By Jok Nicholson
10/7/05
his
month in “Back-2-Basics” I want to go over the
process of installing Comp Cams Pro-Magnum rocker arms on
the Mopar Stage VI aluminum heads. These same procedures will
apply to any stock big-block Mopar cylinder head. I have used
and broken about every type and style of aluminum rocker arm
on my big-block Mopars over the years and the Comp Cams Pro-Magnums
looked like a stronger option. They are part number 1321-16
and come with 16 rocker arms, thick wall shafts and all the
attaching bolts, clamps and spacers.
Before I go any further with this article I do want to mention
we have worked closely with Comp Cams on a couple things we
encountered while using the Pro-Magnums. Read closely and
you will see there are some things to consider before the
assembly starts.
First, you need to realize the original design for this assembly
is intended for high performance street/strip use. That does
not mean the rocker arms are not tough enough for race cars.
What it does mean is that the factory clearance between the
Pro-Magnums and the highly polished shaft is between .0015”
and .002”. This offers enough clearance for cams with
lift up to about .600” and will operate quietly in street
machines. For race applications with lift over .600”
and all roller camshafts, this clearance must be increased
to .004” to .006”.
We had our Pro-Magnums honed at a local machine shop to get
the clearances correct. This cost us $80 (which I imagine
is about average). Failure to do this on a race engine
could result in part failure and severe engine damage. How
do I know this is a necessary step? I experienced the damage
because I did not have the correct clearance on the first
set I installed. The tech staff at Comp Cams and I gave this
a lot of thought and the only thing that could have caused
the problems we encountered was lack of clearance between
the rocker arm and the shafts with our .705” lift roller
cam.
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As
with all of my tech articles I always give my readers the
“whole story”. I do want to be clear that what
happened is nobody’s fault and actually ended up being
a blessing as Comp Cams is now changing the Instructions in
the Chrysler Pro-Magnum rocker arm kit. As my editor Jeff
always says… “No good deed goes unpunished.”
I took a bit of punishment here, but in the end Comp Cams
stood up tall and took care of the problems I encountered
and for that I am glad to see big companies still care about
their customers.
The installation is pretty straight forward. I took a pair
of rockers from the kit, lubed the shaft with ARP moly and
slid the rockers on. I then installed two Comp Cams “checking
pushrods.” These are threaded and extend about an inch
so you can find the exact length pushrod you need. The Pro-Magnums
use ball-type ends rather than the normal cup-style most Mopar
rocker arms use. I adjusted the checking pushrods to approximately
the length of the pushrods I pulled out. This would get me
close to the right length. I set the lash on the two rocker
arms and then looked to see if the roller tip stayed centered
on top of the valve. It did not and we played around with
checking pushrods until we found the length that was just
right.
The method I use to check this is to take a piece of carbon
paper and put a sheet of paper under it and stick in between
the roller tip and the valve and turn the engine over by hand.
The impression the roller tip makes on top of the valve can
be seen on the paper under the carbon paper. At first ours
was off center to the inside. We shortened the pushrods about
.100” and it was almost perfect. It took about an hour
but if you are picky about this it makes the geometry better
and takes the side loads off the valves.
Now that we had the right length for the pushrods we simply
called Comp Cams and told them what we needed. They were at
my shop two days later. We then used the ARP Moly on every
moving part and assembled the rocker arms and pushrods. Be
sure to check side clearances between the rocker arms. We
wanted .035” to .045” per pair. All we had to
do was grind a little off the hold-down spacers to get it
just right. We then marked the spacers with a small punch
so we could get them back together again in the same spot.
My suggestion to you is if this is the first time you are
installing custom parts just take your time, make sure you
lube everything well and if the engine is all new or just
rebuilt be sure to pre-lube it until you get oil out of the
rocker shafts. Time spent doing this will save you big bucks
later on.
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