Drag Racing Online: The Magazine

Volume VIII, Issue 11, Page

 

Check Out That Chassis

By Scott Weney of S&W Racecars
11/8/06

Scott,

I recently purchased a complete pro-street doorslammer. The car has run in the 6.70's numerous times but from the information I was given it seems to me that the sixty foot times are a little slow. The best ever was a 1.079 but mostly they were between 1.09-1.12. The car has a twin turbo SBC, five speed lenco with a triple 10" clutch and weighs 2800lbs with driver. 

In doing some research, this particular car was build within the rules as of five years ago, ie full exhaust, driver and passenger seat etc. It has since lost all of that but the ride height (frame height) seems high, 6" front/8" rear w/a 34.5x17 tire, also the crank center seems high at it's current 12".  The chassis setup I was given calls for a 58" IC and 8" height  on a 11" spread on the housing side from top to bottom bar with the weight distribution at 51% on the front (108" wheelbase).

The previous owner has tried multiple IC locations ranging from 48" out and 4" up, to 66" out and 10" up, but he told me this particular setup seems to eliminate tire shake and squat, but the car wants to pull the left front tire up at least a foot and carry it for 600 feet. I know this is alot to digest but from what I've come to find out it seems to me that the modern "Pro Mod"/"Pro Street" cars have a much lower frame height and crank center.

I guess my question is what can I do within my situation to experiment and maybe improve on what I was given?

Jerry Kostak
Hesperia, CA

Jerry,

The first thing you want to check is the relationship of the chassis 4-link brackets to the rear housing mounts before you go lowering the rear too much. By changing this you will make it much harder to make 4-link adjustments on the fly at the races. There will be much more set up time to make a small change.

That said I would try lowering the front which will lower your CG and it will also flatten your neutral axis line, this will make the car more neutral thru more of the IC adjustments.
The torque roll that you are getting for the first 600 ft is not uncommon with turbo cars, but with a very good anti-roll bar set up you can control this and make the car drive better and be more consistent.

The 60ft times being off is more your turbo set up, if you don’t have one you need to add an MSD boost controller. This will let you build more boost. With out this you can only get about 15# of boost in a clutch car, but with this boost controller you can take timing out of the motor which will make 30# of boost on the starting line and bring the timing back in, in the first couple of tenths to as much boost as it can stand. This will pick up your 60 and your over all ET and MPH.

Scott Weney
President, S & W Race Cars
610-948-7303X111

 

Ask the Experts!!
Submit your tech question to Scott Weney here.
Full Name: Location:
Email Address:
Caption:

Your Question may or may not be chosen to be published on this page.

You can also email Scott Weney at chassis@dragracingonline.com

 

Check Out That Chassis [9/8/06]
Scott Weney will straighten out your chassis problems

Here's What's New!