Here is the Comp Cams degree wheel in action. The dial indicator is set up on the intake lifter. Degreeing in the cam is part of what sets apart the engine assemblers from the PRO engine builders.

Now, a brief overview of the actual process of degreeing in a cam. I am only going to explain the duration at .050" lobe lift method. The other method is to find the intake centerline but I don't like that method, so there! Install your timing set with everything on theoretical "straight up". First, you have to have the proper equipment for the job. You will need a dial indicator and magnetic base, a degree wheel such as the one from Comp Cams, a pointer (a piece of 10 gauge wire and a bolt to fasten it works fine) and a positive piston stop. The stop can be a homemade plate with a stop bolt or a "fancy" one like the piece I use from Powerhouse Products. Second, fasten the degree wheel to the snout of the crank with the number one piston at approximately top center and position the degree wheel "0" at the 12 o'clock position. Now back down the piston about a half inch in the bore (doesn't matter clockwise or counterclockwise) and install the positive stop. The photos will show this more clearly.

Here is the Comp Cams Hex-a-just timing set and torrington bearing camshaft retaining plate. They are both top quality pieces and make my job just a little easier. The retaining plate replaces the factory plate with a bearing.

Then rotate the piston back up very gently until it stops against the piston stop. Take your attached pointer and line it up on some even number such as 20 degrees. It doesn't matter what number you line up on, it just makes it easier to figure with even numbers. Place a mark on the wheel at that point with a pen. Then, rotate the piston back down to bottom center and keep going until you once again come up against the stop. Mark that position on the wheel and add up the amount of degrees between the two marks. Let's just say that it all worked out perfect and both of your numbers were 20 degrees. One side is before top center and the other is after top center. If you add the two values you get 40 degrees total. Divide 40 by half and you get 20. So, in this case your TRUE top dead center would be on the 0-degree mark on the wheel. Whatever the numbers are, add them and divide by two. Then count back from one of the marks the amount you came up with. This is TDC.

Next, remove the piston stop and rotate the crank until the new true TDC mark lines up with the pointer. If the new TDC mark is for instance 5 degrees before TDC on the wheel, line that up with the pointer. Then move the POINTER to TDC "0" on the wheel. DO NOT move the wheel to match the pointer. That would ruin all your efforts. Now, we can get

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crackin'! Install the dial indicator assembly on the block and line up the plunger with the #1 cylinder INTAKE lifter. Zero the indicator and carefully turn the engine clockwise (with a long handled ratchet for leverage) until the lifter moves the indicator to .050" of travel. Then, look at the degree wheel and see what it says. If your cam card says the intake lifter opens .050" at 25 degrees before top center and you have a reading of 20 degrees BTC, the camshaft is opening 5 degrees later (retarded) than the recommended opening. Depending on where you want the cam installed either change the position of the crank gear or whatever other method is available and degree in the cam again to make sure. The entire point of doing all of this is not to dial in the "magic" setting right off the bat, (unless you are luckier than me) but instead, now when you run the engine and it possibly doesn't perform up to your expectations, you will know where the cam is installed and be able to make informed adjustments to the engine. Otherwise, how would you be guaranteed the cam wasn't installed eight degrees either way? Boy! Did I promise to be brief somewhere? Oh well!