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Remember, when you do this it MUST be done so it is PUSH to SHUT IT OFF. That is a rule, so do it right the first time. I will attach a cable to the other end of the rod so I can turn the power off or on from the driver's seat. I think this is an important safety item and you should consider this as well. If you have a major electrical problem you are likely the first to know it and if you can instantly kill the power without unbuckling and going to the rear of the car you might save a lot of repair time and some valuable parts.

	This is the finished electrical panel. The MSD Programmable Digital 7 ignition box and remote Programmer are there along with the main cables from the batteries. I like to ground everything to direct to the battery through a main cable and this makes it easy. If I ever need to add something it will be a lot easier as well since the main power cable is right where you need it. The Moroso switch panel was easy to mount with a small piece of 1-inch aluminum angle and will easy to reach and still out of the way when we are racing.
This is how we mounted the required master disconnect switch. The rod attached to the handle with a small bolt and lock nut (make sure it doesn't bind up) and a black knob from a local hardware store was put on a small piece of steel rod that I cut some threads on to attach it. The rod goes forward from the switch and will attach to a short cable I will locate next to the driver so the battery can be turned on or off from the driver's seat. Make sure your outside disconnect rod or knob is PUSH OFF, it is an IHRA and NHRA rule.
	Close up of the way we used the handle that came with the switch and attached our rod so we could have a knob outside the car and one in the driver's area. Nothing trick, just some thought and a couple bucks worth of hardware.

I made my own fuel pump brackets out of some scrap steel. The bracket for the master switch was bent up in the vise and the mount for the Moroso switch panel is a $1.00 piece of aluminum angle from a lumber store. You can make a lot of very functional parts in your garage if you just give it some thought. It is a great way to save a bunch of money and put some pride into knowing you did it yourself.

I have just about completed the fuel system. I drilled out the fuel cell to accept a new #10 AN outlet and I have decided to use Aeroquip Socketless hose and special fittings for the plumbing. This hose has 250 psi pressure rating and is totally resistant to race gas,

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alcohol, transmission fluid or oils. It will save me about $400 over using stainless hose and the appropriate hose ends. That money will pay for new slicks and the fuel system won't know the difference.

We are going to start out running race gas and to that end we wanted to start with an electric fuel pump. We chose the A2000 pump from Aeromotive. It has more than enough volume for us and has an adjustable bypass so we can control the pressure going to the regulator for either gas or alcohol. We decided to use a relay to power it with for a couple reasons. If you use the switch panel to turn the pump on and off, all the amps go through the switch and it gets worn out quicker. In addition, you are trying to pull the necessary amps through the small wires coming out of the switch panel. With a relay installed back by the pump, all the switch is doing is signaling the relay to turn on and off the high amps needed to run the pump. I used a readily available 30-amp relay from Radio Shack (cost about $7.00) and will make sure the pump is getting full power all the time.

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