What’s unique about these bars is the fact that they can supply major traction (of the nose-bleed-wheel-stand configuration) without any added fabrication. That means that you simply bolt them on and tune the bars for both the track or road surface and the horsepower conditions that exist at the time. In reality, they’re almost like having a 4-link without the welding hassle. Just as important, it’s entirely possible to run these bars on the street (and many savvy street runners do). See the photos for more information.

The back end of the Cal Tracs bar is simple too. It bolts in place of the lower shock mount perch. This is much the same rear mount arrangement that’s used with a good slapper bar. As you can see, the OEM factory mount location is maintained. You don’t need a rubber spring seat that is sometimes sandwiched between the spring and the shock mount bracket.

So what do they fit? Here’s the breakdown. Keep in mind if your leaf spring car isn’t on this list, call Calvert Racing. They’ve built more than a few systems for other applications.

When the time comes to return your Cal-Tracs equipped car to the street, the adjustment is simple: Just rotate the link on each bar clockwise when the car is level. This ensures there is sufficient air gap at the spring stop bolt to allow the suspension to work without preload. Setting it back to “strip” simply involves turning each bar counterclockwise to add preload.

In the end you’ll find that Cal-Tracs bars are designed to give a leaf spring car colossal hook without serious fabrication. That certainly works for us.